Gazette

Gourmode through the foliage

October 6, 2023 #voyage
Where to spend the perfect fall weekend

by Alessandra Busacca @alessandra_busacca

The orange season has officially begun.

And since the days are getting shorter, it’s time to astutely plan upcoming fall getaways.

Between a horseback ride in the woods and a walk hunting for mushrooms or chestnuts to roast over the fire, Gourmode has chosen for you some must-see destinations just a few miles from Milan.

The nostalgic elegance of the lake

 

For lake lovers, those in Lombardy are a varied and elegant option.

If one chooses Como, a striking vantage point is the so-called Nesso gorge, so named for its waterfall overhanging the water. After a descent of stairs, a picture-postcard view opens up, and you can stand on the steps of an old ivy-covered hotel and wait for the sunset until everything turns red, from the leaves to the Civera bridge, a favorite destination for summer diving.

Once in Bellagio, the itinerary continues with a visit to Villa Melzi D’Eril, to afterwards refresh and eat under the pergola of the Ristorante alle Darsene di Loppia. From here with a cab boat you can easily reach the opposite shore of the lake. In Menaggio, recommended options range from an aperitif on the rooftop terrace of the Grand Hotel Cadenabbia  or a detour to the Erre golf club and restaurant at the Grand Hotel Victoria.

Switching lakes, the same magnificence can be found by visiting the Vittoriale degli Italiani on Lake Garda and then concluding with a lake-view aperitif in old money style at the Grand Hotel Gardone (hurry before the old charme fades in the new renovation!). Not far from Riviera del Garda, the archaeological area of Catullus’ caves in Sirmione is worth a visit and a dreamy night at the Villa Cortine Palace Hotel.

But now let us move to the province of Brescia on Lake Iseo, a special destination for those who should love villages frozen in time. The pearl of Lake Iseo is absolutely Monte Isola. This mountain on the water has everything from culture to food, from small stores to luxury hotels; but if you want a magical aperitif overlooking Monte Isola, the best view is offered by Darsena 21.

And on Lake Maggiore? An aperitif at the bar where Nobel Prize winner Ernest Hemingway used to stop is a must: at the Grand Hotel Des Iles Borormées, and of course a visit to Isola Bella is a must. “The bell tolls for us”.

The countryside among riding stables and vineyards

To make the most of the fall foliage, a fascinating and different solution to the lake is horseback riding among rows of vines or in dark forests with gentle glades.

Speaking of wineries, Franciacorta offers diverse activities including excellent tastings, for example at the Berlucchi cellars or the Cà del Bosco estate. A fairy tale without equal, for this and more, and for its ivy that changes color with the seasons, L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux.

For horses, on the other hand, around Milan, there are several riding stables that organize excursions, especially in country areas, often associated with agritourisms where you can taste excellent local products.

West of Milan between Gorgonzola and Melzo, there is the Cascina Rosina  Riding School or the La Rocca Equestrian Club, which offers a wide range of services and horseback trails.

South of Milan, in Oltrepò pavese, however, is the Peker House Riding School known for its scenic rides through the hills to the Staffora stream. The slow pace allows you to admire the castles and mountains on the horizon.

In the Pavia area, between rides in the foliage, don’t forget to take the Strada del Vino e dei Sapori, and visit a few villages for a gourmet stop for example at the Brazzini Restaurant in Canneto Pavese.

In the Lodigiano, after a day of horseback riding, we would definitely choose to sleep on the tree house at Relais Tenuta Il Cigno.

Sparkling mountain air

Steaming polenta and Valtellina-style pizzoccheri, but also relaxation and detox if you head up into the mountains in search of the hottest hot springs.

For an out-of-the-ordinary dream experience, you can stay at the Kelo Resort, a luxury retreat above Bormio, departing on the last cable car to Santa Caterina di Valfurva. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks, night and absolute silence, you can enjoy a drink before or after dinner in one of the lodge’s igloos or tantalize your taste buds with local dishes such as gnocchi with mountain cheese cream, polenta crust and dried alpine flowers.

As an agritourism one of the most pleasant is Agriturismo Rini with a restaurant, store and dairy where you can sample fresh, delicious cheeses.

Among the activities that characterize Valtellina another unique experience is catching the Bernina red train…we know you are already thinking of Switzerland!

And indeed, the mountains offer the most picturesque paths to admire the most authentic foliage. To name a few, the Masino Bath Forest in Valtellina and the Expression Trail in Como’s Val d’Intelvi or The Acquafraggia Waterfalls in Val Chiavenna.

City of art

To combine countryside and lake, Mantua, on the other hand, is the right city for autumn, dreamy especially for its mirrors of water and downtown streets, and for its pumpkin-based culinary offerings. Almost as sweet as the typical sbrisolona with an excellent 5 o’clock tea, the tasty pumpkin and amaretto ravioli can be found almost everywhere in the city. The recipe dates back to the late 15th century and immediately won over the Gonzaga family, becoming a favorite dish at the famous banquets of Isabella D’Este, the first woman of the Renaissance. But where to eat them? You won’t have a hard time finding them, definitely try the ones at Trattoria Cento Rampini  in Piazze Erbe.

An experience not to be missed is the so-called “Lotus Flower Cruise” with the Mincio boatmen on Lake Mezzo (the bloom is in August but nevertheless it is a unique excursion in the Mantuan landscape). And here, on the banks of the river, is also the heavenly nest of the Corte Regia Relais.

Worth discovering in general are the ancient palaces and countless rooms such as the Sala del Labirinto e degli Sposi (Labyrinth and Bridal Room) in the Ducal Palace or Palazzo Te. This is not only in Mantua but in all the cities of the region, because many secret mansions will be open to the public during the FAI autumn dys, for culture lovers a real gem, since it is the only chance to admire otherwise inaccessible places.

Another trip just an hour from Milan is Parma, which in October organizes the Mercante in Fiera for lovers of vintage, art and antiques. Another must-see treat is Palazzo Monti in Brescia, and if we’re talking about gastronomy, a pit-stop in Bergamo‘s Da Vittorio for its paccheri is definitely not to be underestimated.

Well? Dear Gou Gous don’t let the first cold freeze your spirits, let the warm autumn colors warm you up and start exploring our dream itineraries.

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