I have returned to live in Trieste after ten years abroad between New York and London; so begins the postcard from Trieste that Camilla Bach sent us, full of tips and suggestions for rediscovering this très gourmode city in northern Italy.

Between a little restaurant by the sea, a bakery in the historic centre and a store of vintage goodies, let Camilla accompany us through the streets of Friuli’s city, which, as she writes to us, “I rediscovered at the age of 28, and I began to appreciate it.”

TIZIANA WEISS TRAIL

Also called the Sage Trail, I begin this postcard from Trieste with my favourite trail for running or walking the dog. The Weiss or Sage Trail, named for the wild sage that grows among the karst rocks (imagine the scent!), stretches along the coast, shaded by maritime pines, and offers fantastic gulf views.
Remember to wear the right shoes so you can continue to the Fishermen’s Trail, where you’ll find the Canovella degli Zoppoli, a kiosk where you can eat breaded sardoni and a sensational spaghetti alla barcolana.

Sentiero Tiziana Weiss – Località Aurisina Santa Croce

LIDO LE GINESTRE

My childhood, the bathhouse with orange umbrellas and crystal clear water. After the rock tunnel on the coast, coming from town, turn left. Insider tip: If you pay attention and look closely into the tunnel’s rock, you will notice a carved outline reminiscent of Dante’s.

I remember spending years haggling for mother-of-pearl shells that I would collect with my mask for hours on the sea floor: you would stand on the path to the beach with your towel and make friends that way. Growing up, I ventured to “The Cube,” where you would climb up with a rope and dive endlessly.
Today, if you want to go to the brooms, you have to reserve the sunbed well in advance, but it is worth it, I assure you!

Stabilimento Balenare Le Ginestre – SS 14 153/s 34011, Duino Aurisina

MLZ ART DEP

A contemporary art gallery steps from the Grand Canal, MLZ Art Dep hosts exhibitions ranging from photography, painting, video, and sculpture. I like it because it features young artists and exhibits works by established artists such as Zanele Muholi, Carol Rama, Daniel Richter, and Ketty La Rocca.

I often visit the openings in town because they have an international feel, and the exhibitions are always very well-curated.

MLZ Art Dep – Via Roma 15, Trieste

VUD

Filippo and Rosa are two wonderful people, and I often visit their store, which is located in the historic centre of Trieste.

Filippo works with iron and wood, creating cutting boards, tables and chairs, all handmade to measure in his workshop. There are also highly sought-after furniture items that are hard to resist. I have purchased from them numerous cutting boards, as gifts, little houses, colored candles, teaspoons, chairs…. The next purchase will be a square walnut table, but they don’t know it yet!

Vud – Via Armando Diaz 15, Trieste

ESSENZE PERFUME STORE

At this perfume store in Piazza Sant’Antonio you can find Giorgia, who is excellent at recommending the right essence. You talk to her for a while, and she immediately finds the scent you won’t be able to live without. She always gets it right! Spoiler alert: you will leave the store very perfumed….

Profumeria Essenze – Piazza Sant’Antonio 4, Trieste

BOOGALOO

Are you in the mood for a 1940s accessory, a silver two-piece 1970s dress, or perhaps looking for a 1980s shirt? Then you are in the right place! Unique pieces are available at Boogaloo’s, near the Roman gate Arco di Riccardo, in Piazza del Barbacan.

Boogaloo – Piazza del Barbacan 4, Trieste

PAGNA BAKERY

Let’s move downtown to open my Gourmet Places selection with an aperitif at Pagna, a simply delicious artisan bakery. It is located at the beginning of Viale XX Settembre and offers a wide selection of sourdough bread, focaccia and salted butter accompanied by natural wines. They also make good bread with dried fruit, absolutely a must-have. What a treat…

Panificio Pagna – Via Giusto Muratti 4, Trieste

SPACCIO PANI

Speaking of bread, I cannot fail to mention the bakery that opened a few months ago, just a few minutes from the Revoltella Museum (Museum of Modern Art, where you can find self-portraits by Leonor Fini). This very minimal bakery is perfect for a tasty lunch or a satisfying snack.

But beware, at Spacciopani, you can eat pizza slices- it’s really extreme! And if you have a particular sweet tooth, order yourself a maritozzo. It’s special, trust me. I usually get it here after X training hour at the gym. After all that fatigue, I need carbohydrates!

Spaccio Pani – Via del Lazzaretto Vecchio 10, Trieste

LA MUTA

An intimate cocktail bar located in the heart of Cavana, Trieste’s historic center, La Muta sports blue velvet sofas and a golden bar. Here I like to drink Paloma and Dirty Martini and in no time I feel like I’m in Manhattan! Why such a strange name? Well, it seems that in one of the houses nearby lived a woman with somewhat cheerful costumes, nicknamed precisely “La Muta.” And today, the cocktail bar remains to remember her.

La Muta – Via della Pescheria 18, Trieste

ANTICO CAFFÈ TORINESE

A historic venue in Trieste that has been open since 1919, the Antico Caffè Torinese is small and retro, perfect for an aperitif or a great after-dinner cocktail. Thanks to its brass counter and super-chic ebony walls, it is under Fine Arts protection. Definitely a more unique than a rare venue that stays in your heart!

Antico Caffè Torinese – Corso Italia 2, Trieste

ZAMPOLLI ICE CREAM PARLOR

When I was seven, a photographer asked my mother if he could take a picture of us in front of the Zampolli ice cream parlour. That photo has become the shop’s wall today, and you can see me wearing a denim skirt and holding a black poodle on a leash.

In front is my mother wearing daisy sandals; I have a very clear memory of those shoes, and every time I walk into Zampolli’s, I am reminded of the day our picture was taken. Back to the ice cream, my favourite flavour? Dulce de Leche and Pinolata.

Gelateria Zampolli – Via Carlo Ghega 10, Trieste

PIRONA PASTRY SHOP

A historic pastry shop in Trieste, entering Pirona’s, transports you to another era. In addition to the magnificent products on display, they also make delicious cakes on request here. For my 30th birthday, they churned out a raspberry tart four feet long!

Pasticceria Pirona – Largo della Barriera Vecchia 12, Trieste

CHOCOLAT

At Chocolat, you can find salty and dark chocolate cookies. Need I say more? WOW. You are close to Piazza Hortis, in the middle of the pedestrian area, and it is a very small place, but with a lovely table outside where people often stop to read and drink coffee.

Chocolat – Via di Cavana 15, Trieste

OSMIZA GABROVEZ

Let’s leave the city to discover the typical establishments of the Karst plateau: in the osmize, wines and local products are sold and consumed. In Prepotto, Gabrovez is among my osmize of the heart, where you can taste typical dishes, sitting under a magnificent Walnut tree that shelters the tables from the summer sun.

Osmiza Gabrovez is located in the karst village of Prepotto, in the hamlet of Duino-Aurisina. If you’re craving savoury strudels, cold cuts and cheeses produced by their farm, and delicious homemade crepes, you’ve come to the right place!

Osmiza Gabrovez – Location Prepotto 15, Prepotto

TAVERNETTA AT THE PIER

For a spaghetti allo scoglio, I recommend you go to Matteo’s, at Tavernetta al Molo, just across the street from Grignano’s marina. His tartare of scampi and taggiasche olives is exquisite, not to mention the bigoli in cassopipa!

Here in Grignano is another place I am very fond of, the moletto dei tuffi. You can get there easily, and the water is beautiful, on the border of the Miramare Castle nature reserve. Going down to the marina, if you go down the road to the left and to the bottom, you will see a small moletto supported by rocks. Of course, there is no shower, but it is perfect for a sunset toch.

Tavernetta al molo – Riva Massimiliano e Carlotta 11, Grignano

We have ended our Postcard from Trieste, and it was beautiful to have Camilla accompany us to discover her favourite Trieste places.

We look forward to your social shares with a valuable tag to @ateliergourmode, and if you too would like to send us a postcard from one of your heart places, feel free to write us at atelier@gourmode.com – we would be proud to share beauty with our passionate community!

Bon Voyage!