Gazette

La Cartolina from Grado

August 4, 2023 #voyage

Dear Gou Gous,

We are off again for a new trip! Known as The Island of the Sun, Grado, is the place to relax and indulge in idleness without any regrets.

Peaceful, always sunny, pervaded by unspoiled nature but also marked by elegant bathing establishments and a charming historic center, Grado is a seaside resort that will leave you with a bitter taste in your mouth as soon as you have to say goodbye and an uncontrollable desire to return the following summer.

The postcard in question was sent to us by Anna Soyer, blue-eyed, of Mittel-European descent, but in reality a DOC Grado native. Besides being “The Best Insider in Grado”, she is passionate about nature, architecture and wellness. After studying Business Administration and Management at Bocconi and then a master’s degree in Hospitality Management in Rome, she returned to the island to work in the family business and bring a new twist to the Hotel Savoy. The latter has always been a real institution in step with the news and makes Grado even more pleasant and unforgettable for its guests.

Let’s leave the word to our favorite local to make her reveal its places of the heart, gourmet and à la mode!

And to you Gou Gous which ones have impressed you the most?

Places of the heart to see (and to live) absolutely

I am sending you a postcard from my heartland, where I grew up and where I decided to return after my years of studying around Italy. A small island, a Venice in miniature, the true hidden gem of the East Coast. The perfect place for a vacation, where to indulge in lazing on the beach or to be actively living as I like. 

THE HISTORIC CENTER

Get lost in the streets with Venetian charm, visit the early Christian Basilica of Sant’Eufemia with its grandiose mosaic floor, the nearby Baptistery and the small church Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Continue along the seawall strolling towards the Costa Azzurra beach until you catch a glimpse of the lagoon with the mountains in the background. Magical!

Then turn around and admire the skyline of the island of Grado with the Bell Tower towering. On its top is the Archangel Michael (for the people of Grado, the Anzolo) indicating where the wind is coming from.

LAGUNA

Hop aboard Mirko’s Taxi Boat and explore the lagoon with him, among the most hidden canals and fishermen’s casoni. Do it at sunset for a romantic date or lunch with friends stopping at Trattoria ai Ciodi. Afterwards, get taken for a dip at Banco d’Orio (the locals’ beach reachable only by boat). Also beautiful to explore by canoe or SUP.

THE BEACH

Grado is called The Island of the Sun because its beach, 3 km long and facing completely south, is sunny from morning to night. “Nowhere in the world do you get a tan like in Grado!”

To a true Gou Gou I would say to book a cabana at the Sissi Establishment and experience the beach as the Habsburg aristocracy did in the early 1900s.

Mandatory swimming from pier to pier with a (perhaps less aristocratic) sunbathing break on the raft.

TENNIS

If you play tennis, book a sea view court at Fabrizio’s. If your forehand is not as elegant as the court, take the opportunity to take a lesson, Fabrizio is a great teacher!

BIKE

One of the things I most appreciate about Grado is the fact that you can get around on foot or by bicycle: the island is very compact with no elevation changes. Once parked, you won’t get back into your car until you leave again!

For a more challenging ride, I recommend the scenic lagoon bike path that will take you to Aquileia (or all the way to Salisburgo), with a small detour through the Boscat pine forest.

JOGGING

This is a real insider’s ride, which I recently discovered and am excited about. It starts in the residential area called Goppion Valley and climbs the riverbank. From there, an 11-kilometer run/walk starts among the fishing valleys that runs alongside the Barbana Sanctuary. If lucky, you can see pink flamingos in the fall.

Gourmet places

TAVERNETTA ALL’ANDRONA

For excellence the most refined restaurant, in one of the most romantic little squares of “Grado Vecchia”.

The gourmet kitchen offers a fish menu and a meat menu, accompanied by an excellent wine list.

Tavernetta All’Androna – Calle Porta Piccola, 6

CARDAMOMO

Recently opened is a small restaurant with a fresh and young concept, very nice also the inside room, where until a few years ago there was a butcher shop. The cuisine is exquisite! Highly recommend their fish crudes.

Cardamomo – Calle Merlato, 6

ANTONIAZZI GELATERIA

Summer and sea mean ice cream and therefore Gelateria Antoniazzi. An institution on the Island. You will probably have to wait in line, but it will be worth it. I love their pistachio, which has already won several awards.

Gelateria Antoniazzi – Viale Dante Alighieri, 23

GADDI BAKERY AND AZ. F.LLI MOVIO FARM

Panificio Gaddi is where to go for breakfast, where they bake bread of different kinds, also excellent is the quinoa bread. Immediately next door is a small store selling produce from Fossalon, the agricultural area of Grado. In addition to fruits and vegetables, you will find yogurt, cheeses, and frico made by them.

Panificio Gaddi e Az. Agricola F.lli Movio – Via Orseolo II, 7

À la mode places

HOTEL SAVOY

A guarantor of relaxation since 1952, Hotel Savoy is the place to stay in Grado. With its sky-blue facade and surprisingly eccentric interior design, it’s also perfect for those who want to indulge in a day at the spa or a poolside lunch.

Hotel Savoy – Riva Slataper, 1

ORICALCO

This is a goldsmith’s workshop in the heart of the historic center. It makes unique jewelry, even from your own ideas or designs. I would say highly recommended if you are looking for a special gift!

Oricalco – via Gradenigo, 12 

BAR ALLA SPIAGGIA

A really chic bar, completely white except for the green garden that allows for just the right amount of privacy if you are there for a special date. I order a maracuja mojito, which for me is immediately gelato solero from my younger years.

Bar Alla Spiaggia – Giuseppe Mazzini Street, 2

AL COGOLO

As the name suggests (Cogolo is a type of fishing net) at Cogolo you know when you come in, but not when you leave! It is a small wine shop, right next to the Androna, with excellent products.

I always order “the fucsia“, for which I leave you the recipe released to me directly by the host Roberto:

½ bottle of Campari Soda,

1 Dose of Gordons Gin (or a Perfumed Gin),

1 Dose Soft drink of Grapefruit,

Should be served with plenty of ice and strictly in a tumbler.

Al Cogolo – Calle Porta Piccola, 6

Thank you Anna for leaving us this exceptional guide to Isola del Sole, a true holiday destination.

From which magical place will we receive the next Cartolina? To find out, just keep browsing our Gourmode Gazette!

Happy Holidays!

You may also
be interested in

La Cartolina from Capri
Gazette
La Cartolina from Taormina
Gazette